Sherry 101
Where is sherry from?
Sherry is unique to Southern Spain, specifically a triangle of vineyards north of Cádiz, between the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
How is it produced?
Sherries are white wines, which are ‘fortified’ after fermentation by adding grape brandy. They are aged in a system known as a solera, a series of large barrels containing sherries of many different ages. The wines are transferred between barrels as they age and are usually sold as blends of wines from different years. The ‘age’ of the sherry you might see on a bottle is the average age of the component wines.
Our favourite styles of sherry
Sherry is usually aged in one of two ways, either under a thick surface of yeast, known as flor, or without. The flor covering prevents oxygen accessing the wine as it ages, resulting in a fresher style. Without flor, oxygen causes the wine to develop many additional interesting flavours.
Apart from the sweet sherries, also known as ‘dulces naturales’, the following dry wines are all made from the Palomino grape and are known as ‘generosos’.
Fino after fermentation, fino is fortified to around fifteen per cent alcohol then aged under flor in a solera, for a minimum of two years. The result is a dry and aromatic style of wine, which takes on more complex flavours as it ages.
Manzanilla is similar to fino but has a more delicate and saline flavour profile. It must be aged in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the coastal location affects the wine’s development and flavour.
Amontillado is a sherry that is aged two times; first under flor and then without. It is more heavily fortified compared to fino and can have incredible complexity, with nutty, oaky, aromatic herb flavours and more structure. There are a range of styles of amontillado, depending on the relative influences of the aging processes.
Oloroso is produced from more concentrated grape juice and is aged only oxidatively. The result is a more alcoholic, full-bodied sherry which is dry but has great complexity. It can offer notes of toast, nuts, balsamic vinegar, tobacco and dried fruit.
Palo Cortado is a rarer style of sherry that starts life as a fino but goes a bit rogue, without developing a complete layer of flor. It is then fortified and aged oxidatively, similar to an oloroso. In short, it combines the characteristics of amontillado and oloroso. The results can sublime, a full flavour of nuts and dried fruits like an oloroso but lighter in body, usually very dry with a saline finish.
Sweet sherries are usually made from the Pedro Ximénez grape, or sometimes Moscatel. To make these styles of sherry, the grapes are often dried in the sun to concentrate flavour. Pedro Ximénez can have flavours of Christmas spices, coffee, toffee, licorice, chocolate and raisins. Moscatel-based sherries can be similar in style if the grapes are dried, or have a more fresh and floral character if not.
Hybrid sherry types made from a combination of dry wines and sweet wines are known as generosos de licor, often sold as pale cream, medium, or cream sherry.
Serving and storing sherry
Sherry should usually be served chilled. Fino and manzanilla are usually served at a slightly lower chilled temperature than the other styles. However, we like to serve all sherry at fridge temperature and see how they develop in the glass as they warm up.
Sherry usually keeps well if unopened. If stored somewhere cool and dark most bottles can be kept for between one and a half to three years. However, unlike many wines, sherry keeps very well once opened. If the bottle is resealed and placed in the fridge, fino and manzanilla will stay in good shape for up to a week, amontillado and palo cortado for up to four weeks, oloroso can last a little longer and sweet sherries up to eight weeks. This is a good thing, it means you have longer to savour and enjoy a bottle of sherry once opened!